Koh Rong Sanloem & Kampot

Cambodia’s white pearl

Packed between mountains of vegetables, cartons of milk and thousands of fresh eggs we close in on our next destination, Koh Rong Sanloem. We figured we’d earned another couple of days on a beach so we’re headed to one of Cambodia’s few beach paradises. As per usual we’d looked for the cheapest available option to get there, which is how we ended up on the slow supply boat instead of a fast ferry; a memorable experience to say the least. After a long boat ride we arrive at the island during a wonderful sunset and crawl over big 10-litre water bottles onto the pier. We stroll through the sand all the way (300 metres) to our guesthouse, enriched with the knowledge of how to supply a small to medium sized island.

Our new daily routine consists of: sleeping in, munching on chicken sandwiches for brunch (with a view of the splendid blue ocean), reading on the beach (our ‘Goodreads reading challenge’ is nearing completion fast), swimming, enjoying the sunset while sipping on an ice cold beer and last but not least, a simple but good dinner at the neighbours restaurant. It’s a perfect routine to relax entirely, completed by the peaceful absence of WiFi. And although we have spent some time on amazing beaches in the past eleven months, Robbe seems to have found a new favourite. A very calm sea as clear as bottled water lined by a silky smooth white sand beach almost devoid of people and with plenty of shade. In short: perfect!

To top off this great visit to Koh Rong Sanloem, on our last evening we decice to have a look at the bioluminescent plankton. Of course there’s no seafront promenade or any sort of lighting along the coast, so we have to find our way back to the beach in the pitch dark by following a narrow jungle path. The next step is to walk into the dark, looming ocean at random and diving underwater. It’s all a bit spooky, but once you’re in, you only have to wave your arms or legs around to be amazed by the most marvelous phenomenon we have ever seen: thousands of little particles of plankton start lighting up all around you, it’s pure magic! Unfortunately, besides the bioluminescent lighting, less enjoyable lightning has arrived. It’s obvious that it’s not at all relaxing to be in the ocean while there thunder and lightning on the way, so we run back along the dark jungle road to the village of M’pay Bay. But my god, what an experience!

Crossing the border by bus after all

As a last stop in Cambodia we visit Kampot, a small city only an hour’s drive away from the Vietnamese border. Kampot is a perfect example of a run-down but cute little place that has been discovered by tourists and is thriving and reliving because of them. Guesthouses, bars and restaurants have been opened along the riverside and old colonial houses have been turned into shops and bakeries.

Although there is quite some charm to the place, there’s nothing much to do, so we only stay for a short while. We had this vague idea to buy a motorbike here to cross into Vietnam with, but that seems a tall order. Alternatively, we hire a scooter and explore the surroundings, like the neighbouring town of Kep and Kep National Park before we decide to give up our motorbike-buying plans and book a bus all the way to Ho Chi Minh City. Vietnam, the last “real country” on our big trip (let’s be honest, Hong Kong is more of a city than a country and in Italy we’re only visiting Rome) is waiting for us. The finish line is in sight, but we’re not slowing down yet!

Recommendations

• Koh Rong Sanloem

• Apparently 90% of the visitors to the neighbouring island of Koh Rong get food poisoning, so make sure to book a place on the right island to enjoy your holiday.

• “Night plankton!” Starting around 9PM you can see the bioluminescent plankton. The later the better.

• Grab one of those tasty Chicken sandwiches at the beach in M’pay Bay. They’re big, yummy and cheap

• Kampot

• Hire a scooter and visit Kep, while you’re there.

Striking

• Koh Rong Sanloem

• Almost all places on the island are started up or being run by foreigners. There are still a few locally owned restaurants, but all the new startups seem to be initiatives of Westerners who think they can earn some money while spending their days on a paradise island.

• Kampot

• Lots of mosques in the area.