Hoi An & Huế

Romance between lanterns

With sore limbs and a burnt calf we finally arrive in one of the most picturesque villages in Asia. After a long day of driving we’re especially happy to be here. In the 16th century, Hoi An was an important trading hub between Europe and Asia, but today it is merely a welcoming tourist hotspot. The old trading houses and buildings with their characteristic yellow facades have been listed as UNESCO world heritage in 1999, and rightfully so. This place is simply stunning!

The cosy and relaxing atmosphere is omnipresent. Everything adds to it, from the authentic houses to the storefronts packed with tailor made suits. Even the pushy street vendors kind of charm us here. To top it all off we find ourselves a sun-soaked terrace by the river selling 20 pence beers. We even book an extra night in town!

To be honest, it’s not only for those 20 pence beers that we extend our stay, but mainly because we found out that the next day a ‘lantern festival’ is taking place. Hoi An is already an extraordinarily agreeable place in the evening with all those beautifully crafted lanterns lining the streets, but hundreds of lanterns floating on the river turn the place simply magical. During the ‘lantern festival’ all bars, shops and restaurants along the river turn off their lights so only the bright moon and the paper lanterns light the surroundings. The river turns into a fiery stream with thousands of candles slowly floating downstream, rendering it into a perfectly romantic place to spend an evening.

Originally the lantern festival was only held once per year, but due to its (understandably) huge popularity it is now being celebrated at every full moon, albeit a little less big and spectacular. Original or not, it’s an event that makes you go quiet for a moment. Needless to say this evening is one of the most atmospheric events of our entire trip so far.

About century old dynasties

Following right after one of the most beautiful towns is one of the most beautiful roads. To reach our next destinations we have to cross the Hai Van pass, a mountain pass that is regarded as one of the must-take routes on a motorcycle in Vietnam. While driving the winding road uphill to the top of the mountain, you are treated on some stunning views of the surrounding bays and turquoise-water beaches. Add a scorching sun, relentless heat and a bright blue sky and you’ve got the perfect recipe for a beautiful but tiring day. Although tiring, we kind of wish this day will never end, but of course it does when we drive straight into another hectic rush hour when entering the former Vietnamese capital of Huế.

During our stay in Huế, the weather is very much volatile. One day we can barely stand the heat – even our spring rolls are having trouble cooling down –, the next day it drizzles incessantly. In these weather conditions we visit the Imperial City (inside of the city citadel). This is the city the former emperor and his closest family members lived in during the Nguyen dynasty (1802-1945). There are several visible similarities to the Forbidden City in China, but it’s safe to say that Vietnam clearly boasts lots of Chinese influences. Most places of interest in Huế have something to do with the life or death of former emperors of the Nguyen family. Besides the aforementioned Imperial City, you can visit several tombs or stroll around the Museum of Royal Antiquities.

There is one very unique place to visit while visiting Huế, though, which has nothing to do with its imperial history. A few miles out of the city centre you can find an abandoned waterpark (that you are actually not allowed to enter). An abandoned place like this is always kind of thrilling, but here it’s all the more scary as we have read that alligators now reign over this watery kingdom. Upon entering we get a first clue that it’s not all that scary or prohibited as we though it would be, as there’s an old lady asking us money for parking. Once in, we see lots of other backpackers driving their Honda Wins around the park, but no alligators at all. Nevertheless we manage to take quite a few striking pictures in this unique setting.

Next stop: Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, by following Duong Ho Chi Minh, also known as “Uncle Ho’s road”.

Recommendations

• Hoi An

• Plan your visit during one of the lantern festivals to experience the unique atmosphere.

• Drink cheap beer.

• Huế

• Visit the abandoned waterpark. Don’t pay any entrance or parking fees, just enter and drive around at your own pace to take some cool pictures.

• Go to the Imperial City and one imperial tomb. There are three famous tombs in the area but we thought there was no need to visit all three of them.

Striking

• Hoi An

• Lots of people on electric bicycles.

• Plenty of tailors!

• Huế

• We spotted a lot of big ornamental graves in the middle of fields outside of the city centre. Unfortunately we never learned the reason for them specifically being built there.